Thursday, February 16, 2012
I'd like to invite everyone to the DFM! Super Awesome Town Hall for Wargamers Webinar meeting with anyone that is interested in the future of DFM! and Wargaming in Central Oregon.
It will be on March 22nd, 23rd, and 24th from 7:00pm to 7:30pm PST.
I will be using Tinychat.com, which has a quick and easy log in system through Facebook. To help anyone interested get on easy in a few seconds. If you have a webcam...us it. I will be!
I will post an agenda for the Webinar here in the next week. If you are interested or want to tell me this a dumb idea...tell me. Also, if you want to move the dates. I really need feed back.
This will be hosted by Mat Lawson.
Thanks everyone and hope to see you,
Read more at DFM! Message Boards or Facebook.
Thursday, February 9, 2012
Don't get tagged!
Starting a 40K campaign on Feb 5th. Will cost $10 and we are going to try to do it every Saturday until we're done. We will also be using the Planetary empire rules and tiles.
Warhammer 40,000 Campaign Rules
Army ListThis is a list of the general rules we'll have. Feel free to keep them for yourselves. After we finish this one we will be doing a fantasy campaign using Mighty Empires.
All current army books can be used in this campaign. It’s possible that as the campaign continues that armies could receive a new codex. New codex’s can be used the week that they are released.
Armies may only use a single special character in their list.
Game 1-750 points
Game 2-1000 points
Game 3-1250 pints
Game 4-1500 points
Game 5-1500 points
Game 6-1750 points
Game 7-1750 points
Game 8-2000 points
Players Receive an extra 50 points for each additional tile that their opponent controls.
Players can receive an extra 50 points for the manufactorum’s they control.
Game Map - Planetary empires is played on a tile map, before the game begins players roll 2D6, the player with the highest roll places the first building. The player to that persons left then places a building, this continues until all the buildings are placed. The player who lays down the last building is the first player to place their flag claiming their piece of territory. Then the player to that persons right places a flag, this continues until each tile has been claimed.
No building may be placed in a tile next to a Hive city tile
Fighting Battles - The player with the least amount of tiles is the first to challenge another player to a battle. This continues until all players have been paired up.
If there are an odd number of players then after everyone else has paired up for battle then the odd player out may challenge any player, this will mean that one player will end up playing 2 games.
Players with bonus points due to manufactorum’s and facing opponents with extra tiles may spend their extra points to add to their existing army.
Conquest - After a game players may attempt to capture a tile to expand their territory. They do this by rolling 2D6 and scoring 3+ if the tile is adjacent to their territory or a 7+ if it is not.
Players may only take tiles if they are victors, a draw gains you nothing.
Players may only take tiles from their opponent that round or from any players who are not present during that round. It is assumed that their army was to preoccupied to defend their territory.
Players receive a -1 to their dice roll if there are any ruins or defense line on the tile.
Players receive a -2 to their dice roll if their attempting to take a space port.
Players receive a negative modifier to their dice roll if the tile is on or around a shield generator
Players receive a +1 to their first dice roll if they scored a major victory during this round of battle.
Players receive a +2 to their first dice roll if they scored a massacre during this round of battle.
Players may re-roll a single D6 during this round when attempting to capture a tile if they captured the bonus objective.
Players that are attempting to capture an enemy tile may attempt to take more than just one. Players receive a -1 modifier for each extra tile they attempt to capture after the first, this is cumulative. However, if a player is attempting to capture more than one tile and fails in their attempt then they have been counter attacked and the defending player may attempt to capture some of the attackers tiles but receive a -2 to their dice rolls in addition to an other modifiers. The defending player may only attempt to claim one tile.
Buildings - Each army receives a number of points for each different building that
Power stations - Player with the most points from power stations adds +1 to dice rolls for picking deployment areas, seeing who goes first, and reserves.
Shield generator - Gives negative modifiers to players trying to capture the tile and surrounding tiles.
Manufactorum - Player with the most points from Manufactorum’s receive 50 bonus points to spend on their army.
Command bastion - Player with the most points from command bastions rolls a D6, on a 4+ they may give a single unit in their army one of the universal special rules.
Space port - All space ports count as being next to each other when it comes to capturing territory.
Hive city - Hive cities count as a single power station, shield generator, manufactorum and command bastion.
Please inquire below if you would like to play after the start date of February 5, 2012.
Thursday, February 2, 2012
So Isaiah asked me how he should do his Eldar. Well I give him some tips, and those tips turned into an 2 page words document. And that two page word document has turned into the article before you. So let's start:
• Sunburst Yellow
• Regal Blue
• Snot Green OR Liche Purple
• Red Gore
• Chaos Black
• Gryphonna Sepia Wash
• Leviathan Purple
• Devlan Mud
• Skull White
• Ultramarine’s Blue
• Warlock Purple OR Goblin Green
• Blood Red
• Codex Grey
Start with the Daemonic Yellow army painter spray. Which if you don't have any try using a white primer then going over those areas with Sunburst Yellow (or any yellow of your choice). Remember to thin your paints and it may take a coat or two (of three or four or five...) to get full coverage. And if you use an airbrush you always want to thin your paints to about the consistency of skim milk. The airbrush maybe needing only one or two coats.
The primed model, when wanting brighter colors use a white primer.
Next base coat the head, shoulders, and anywhere else you want blue to be in Regal Blue (Or any blue of your choice.)
After that hit the gems with either green or purple, this is going to contrast against the red guns or the blue used just to make the model pop a little more. I would use either Liche Purple or Snot Green. And use this same color with the power weapons just so things will meld together a little better.
Next hit the guns with a base coat of Red Gore, as well as picking out the eyes with the same red.
Once that is done hit any of the joints or cables with Chaos Black just so they don't get lost in the yellow. But don't go overboard with this color as your guys my look more like eldar imperial fists than Iyanden eldar.
And after all of that you should have a basic Lyanden Eldar!
But of course you aren't finished there.
Wash the yellow with Gryphonne Sepia, trying to just stay in the recesses.
Now if you went with green for the gems hit that with Thrakka Green wash. And if you went with purple wash it with Leviathan purple, same goes with the purple power weapons.
And finally wash the red bits with Devlan Mud.
Now you have an awesomely table top ready Iyanden eldar!
However there are a few more steps you can take to make it that much better. The basic principle is to go back over the washed areas with the same color you base coated them in just so the wash doesn't completely drown out the original color. Making sure to let the wash show through in the cracks and crevasses.
After that now you have a bad ass Iyanden eldar! But there is one more thing you can do...
With the sunburst yellow washed and re-base coated you can then take a little white, mix it with the Sunburst Yellow (I'd say mix it about 80% Sunburst yellow and 20% Skull white). Then take that new mix and paint it on the edges and highest areas of the model to give it a nice clean highlight. That way you have the darkest colors in the recesses, a nice middle color in between and finally a nice highlight to make it pop!
Then With the blue do that same kind of method with the yellow, however instead of mixing it, just use Ultra Marines Blue in place of the yellow/white mix. Highlighting only the highest edges and areas.
For the Liche purple, just take some Warlock purple and make some lightning bolts or streak effects in the Power weapons, and then use that color the same way like with the yellow and the red, only highlighting the highest areas and surfaces. And as a bonus step here, I recommend going back over those streaks or lightning bolts with just in the center of them, just to make them pop just that much more. But if you picked Snot green for the gems, I recommend using Goblin green in place of the Warlock Purple.
With the reds take some Blood Red and use that as the highlight, same with the all the other highlights, just high the highest points and surfaces.
And finally for the Chaos black, I recommend taking some Codex Grey and just highlighting very few areas that may get some light. This is just to make the black not look so dull compared to the other colors.
And once finished you have a truly epic Iyanden Eldar, ready to strike down any foe!
Side View #1
Side View #2
Now remember this is not to make an awesome showcase display model, this is purely just to have an awesome eldar army finished fast and looking good. And by the way this method only took me about 30-45 minutes, and most of that was dry time for the yellow and washes. Also this is no way any indication of my actual skill as a painter this was just written up to help get a quick army painted and on the table while not sacrificing appearance.